Singapore - Malaysia -- Day 1 -- Johar Bahru

Here begins the second half of my journey with a well-deserved break in India. I arrived at Singapore Changyi Airport and from Terminal 2, I took the subway to Bugis station. The subway system in Singapore is absolutely fantastic; it is clean, fast and always on time and a pleasure to use. It was around 12.30 pm and I had a bit to eat (nasi goreng and coke) on Queens Street, very close to the fish market. I then hopped over to the taxi stand and took a shared taxi (S$ 8) across the Causeway to Johar Bahru on the Malaysian side. The immigration and customs were all processed while sitting in the cab. A nice touch! Incidentally, while taking the cab ride, there are signs instructing Singapore drivers not to drive empty to Johar Bahru and fill up in Malaysia, because gas is cheaper. The fine for such a "violation" is S$ 500 (~ 350 USD). Singapore is a "fine" city indeed.

You see the difference as soon as you step your foot into Johar Bahru. It's not quite as clean and as well organized. I walked a bit to the train station and bought a second class ticket with a sleeper (34 MYR) to Jerantut, the gateway to Taman Negara National Forest. The train was to leave only at 7.56 pm (and arrive at 2.54 am); I had almost 5 hours to kill. So I left my backpack at the train station and wandered in Johar Bahru with no particular plan. After searching a bit, I found an ATM and withdrew cash for the rest of my stay in Malaysia.

Johar Bahru is filled with people of Indian descent, mostly Tamilians. It is a peculiar thing with emigrants; their behavior and taste are frozen to the time they left their place of origin -- in Johar Bahru's case the 70's. What many of them don't realize is that their places of origin have moved on, but the emigrants haven't changed in the least bit. The city was dusty and hot -- no surprise there, and in the heat, many Indian vendors were preparing for Diwali, the festival of lights. Loud music everywhere and all sorts of things to eat too. Interesting town, but not worth wasting a vacation on.

At a local pub I had a beer, which at 15 MYR is indeed very expensive, but that is the case in all of Malaysia anyway. Some more walking around, some more water, rinse and repeat. Around 6.30 pm or so, I walked into an Indian eatery and got some biriyani and roti channai. It was filling and not the best food. The people running the eatery were very nice and friendly though. I also got some tea, but did not like it all. Finally, I pickup up my luggage and got ready to board the train.

The train was similar in many ways to those in India. Families with wailing kids, upper and lower berths, somewhat mysteriously functioning doors on the trains, dull colors, squat-down toilets, faded curtains etc. It had a quaint and homely feeling to it. The train started slowly and picked up speed only gradually. In some sections, the train swayed quite a bit, but it was no cause for worry. The travel is supposed to offer excellent views during the day, but sadly I took the night train. So, no views of greenery for me. There is excellent information about train travel here and the route too.

Finally arrived at Jerantut station at 3.15 am and met a nice young French couple, Nicholas and Marianne. A bus (or rather a minivan) was waiting to take us to Sri Emas guest house, a short 10 minutes away. I took the only room available, an air-conditioned room (30 MYR) for just three hours. I didn't mind it, because I was sleep deprived and badly in need of a shower. Time to sleep.

Kuala Lumpur -- Day 2 -- Selamat Ingal!

I skipped the rich breakfast spread at the hotel, because Perng decided instead to take me to a local Indian eatery. I checked out of the hotel too, since I was leaving for India later that evening. Anyway, the breakfast at the Indian eatery was great. I had murtabak (stuffed naan unique to Malaysia), rava dosa, excellent kopi (coffee), while Perng had kottu paratha (chopped paratha with meat toppings), idly (strangely with veggies and chicken).

He drove me through Petaling Jaya neighborhood, formerly a middle class neighborhood with factories, through parts of KL and Chinatown. The architecture of KL has changed since the 80's with the rising fortunes of Malaysia and the subsequent introduction of neo-Islamic buildings by the erstwhile Prime Minister, Mohatir Mohammad. Many newly constructed official buildings have signs in Arabic, where previously there was no known influence. We had coffee, chatted about Malaysian and Chinese history, and finally Perng dropped me off at KLIA Central Stesen (sic). I dropped off my luggage at KLIA (15 MYR) and took a metered cab (8 MYR) to the orchid garden (admission 12 MYR) and also visited the excellent KL Bird Park (admission 35 MYR for tourists, 15 MYR for Malaysians). I enjoyed a good couple of hours there, returned to KLIA Central and proceeded to Pudu Raya bus station to board my bus to Singapore.

Bus ride to Singapore: The bus was scheduled to leave at 5.30 pm and I had arrived an hour early. I had two chicken burgers (6 MYR) and a soda at a stand. Enjoyed it. It was murderously hot, sweaty, dirty and replete with exhaust fumes from the buses. There was huge throng of wailing kids, women in conservative Muslim garbs, teenagers, old people, beggars and what not. I waited patiently for the bus -- 5.15 pm, 5.25 pm, 5.45 pm, 6.00 pm and still no bus. I was nervous about missing my flight from Singapore. A co-passenger, Sam from Singapore, was sympathetic and assured me that I was in the right place -- after all, at that point, time was paramount. The bus finally arrived and departed at 6.20 pm; that meant arrival in Singapore at approximately 11.30 pm. The bus was fortunately comfortable, but we were stuck in heavy rush hour traffic of KL with traffic approaching speeds of 10 kmph (~ 6 mph)! After an hour or so of stop and go traffic, we were finally on the highway. The bus driver played some action-thriller on the DVD player and I paid little or no attention to it. Around 9.00 pm we stopped for an "unscheduled" break at a roadside eatery. I had some noodle soup to stave off hunger. The bus was delayed by almost an hour-and-a-half when we reached the border town of Johar Bahru. We went through Malaysian emigration and a few hundred meters of walking through Singapore immigration.

Things were looking pretty bleak. To top it all, I had no Singapore currency. I traded just enough Malaysian ringgits with some passengers for cab fare. I probably paid too much. Sam, the afore-mentioned gentleman, helped me through Singapore customs by taking me through the channel for Singapore residents. A big thank you to Sam and Singapore customs!! Without them there might not have been a visit to India at all. I got off at the very first stop (Woodlands), ran 200-300 meters with my baggage and all, and jumped into a cab for a 30 minute ride to Changyi airport. I made it in time (12.43 am) before the gates closed for my flight at 1.25 am! Whew, that was close! I settled into my seat for the JetStar Asia flight to Bangalore. I'm nervous as I write this episode. Home at last!